The bottle
Clermont Steep American Single Malt Whiskey, $59.99
The back story
One of the biggest names in bourbon is going into the Scotch business — sorta.
The James. B. Beam Distilling Co. — the folks behind not only Beam bourbon, but also such bourbon brands as Booker’s, Basil Hayden and Knob Creek — is releasing its first-ever single-malt whiskey with Clermont Steep. (The bottle is due out next month, but we got a sneak peek, er, taste.)
Single-malt whiskey is defined as whiskey sourced from a single distillery and made from malted barley. It is forever associated with Scotland, of course, in the form of Scotch. But there’s nothing that says single-malt whiskey can’t be made in other places — and indeed it is, be it Japan, India or France.
The U.S. has also been quickly catching on to the trend. When I first wrote about American single malts in 2015, just a handful of distilleries were producing it. Now, there’s an entire organization devoted to the category — the aptly named American Single Malt Whiskey Commission — and it has about 90 member producers, according to Steve Hawley, its president.
Perhaps just as significant: The Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau is considering giving the category an official status and standard of identity.
But Beam joining the list of producers is also no small deal. “It’s a rapidly growing segment,” says Carlo Coppola, Beam Distilling managing director, of the decision to launch Clermont Steep. Plus, it’s a way for Beam to broaden its reach, he notes: “We’re known for making great bourbon and great rye. We want to expand the boundaries of our whiskey-making capabilities.”
Coppola is so bullish on single malts that he sees the category “growing even more rapidly than bourbon in the next five years.”
But is an American single malt just another name for Scotch? Not quite. As Coppola is quick to point out, the Beam whiskey is aged in new American oak barrels, whereas Scotch is typically aged in barrels that have previously held another whiskey (including bourbon) or sherry.
Other differentiating factors also come into play, including the climate of the place where the barrels are aged. Scotland, with its cool, damp weather, is not exactly Kentucky, where Clermont Steep is produced — specifically, Clermont, Kentucky. As for the “Steep” in the name, that refers to a process used in making malt whiskey.
What we think about it
It’s difficult to compare any American single malt with any single-malt Scotch because Scotch itself is such a varied category, with a range of producers across the country reflecting different styles. That said, Clermont Steep is far from a “Scotch” – it has a sweetness, with notes of vanilla and caramel, that’s all its own. And it’s a tasty little sip, with just a hint of cinnamon and pepper-like spice on the finish that gives it a little complexity as well. In all, a good way to explore this burgeoning category.
How to enjoy it
Coppola told me you really need to have this neat or on the rocks to appreciate its uniqueness — and I heartily concur. But he says it can also work in a whiskey-based cocktail, such as a Manhattan.
Read the full article here
